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Part I - Snakes with Appetites:   The most important thing to make certain of about any snake you intend to keep as a pet is that it eats without difficulty.  (It's also of great importance that the snake keeper doesn't have any problem feeding them rats or mice, which should always be pre-killed.)  Some species, particularly when young and starting out, won't eat readily, or in the worst case scenario, not at all. It's hard to say why a snake refuses food - perhaps it can't live in captivity or maybe there is something physically wrong with it, be it parasites, disease, or something genetic. Often they don't like what's on the menu! Snakes who eat other reptiles and amphibians in the wild can have a hard time ever accepting the rodent fare they are presented with in captivity, especially hatchlings or wild caught specimens.

Reptiles in perfect health - not just snakes - have members who refuse to eat, and many go through phases where they won't eat anything, be it due to a long shed process or it's wintertime. These healthy adults can fast for months at a time, then regain hunger on their own. In snakes, members of the Python and Boa families are known for this. There is a Ball Python on record as having gone 22 months! Our female Eastern Chain Kingsnake (& site mascot!), Babe, has been known to go for 10 weeks during the winter.

But refusal to eat shouldn't occur in a young snake that's intended as a special pet, especially for a child who might really take it to heart. Young snakes should eat soon after their first shed, and then eat a little more often than an adult snake of the same species. If they start out life malnourished, they won't make for a strong and robust adult later on and this could attract parasites and disease. Some of the finickier species starve before they even reach adulthood.

Good hobbyists won't sell a snake that isn't eating. Be careful when buying any reptile from large chain pet stores, where employee turnover is high. This can make for inconsistent animal care, and reptiles are often among the sickliest in these situations. Note that a reptile can suffer for a long time before many would notice something was wrong, especially the inexperienced.

To watch an animal starve itself is very discouraging, not to mention heartbreaking. There are some species that are known for refusing food, while others are known for accepting their dinner without fail. The beginner should always obtain a snake whos species is known for eating well from the start, where the only reason they wouldn't is if something is seriously wrong.
(See the list below.)

***Important:  Always remember to set a snake's heat source to the appropriate temperature, which is species specific (77° to 82° for most snakes). It's okay to cool them down in the winter when they eat less often, but for digestion and appetite, a snake needs heat under it's belly.



Snakes that are known for eating well are:
  • Rat Snakes (Elaphe)
    We have had several kinds of rat snakes including Taiwanese Beautys, Corn Snakes, Baird's, Black, and Yellow Rat Snakes and have never had a problem getting them to eat. Most are quite enthustiastic at dinnertime. Don't forget to separate snakes that are housed together when it's feeding time.

  • Kingsnakes (Lampropeltis)
    Most are good eaters once they get going, but some are harder to get eating than others. California Kingsnakes usually do fine. When choosing from other members of lampropeltis getula - the Eastern Chain, Floridian, and Speckleds Kings amongst them - it might be best to avoid young hatchlings, and pick up a yearling or more instead. Watch your fingers, arms, etc., some kingsnakes get over excited when it comes to food. All species make mistakes; you can use large tweezers to grasp the prey in order to avoid being the target. Also, do your homework before housing two kingsnakes together: They are known for eating other snakes, including rattlesnakes and other kings.

  • Boa Constictors (Boa constrictor)
    In absence of health problems, these robust snakes (females are quite a bit larger than males) are worry free, and we ourselves haven't heard of problems with them eating. Ours eats well, and fasts during the cold months.

While getting a snake who eats should be the first priority, many potential pet snake owners are more concerned with temperament and size potential. Fortunately, there are many mild-mannered (medium to large) snakes who also eat well. Click here for information and a list of easy-going snakes, most of whom have good appetites.  For more general information, check out our page About Snakes.

About our lists and recommendations for potential snake owners:  We don't own every type of snake, particularily large pythons and venomous snakes, and are therefore not listed. We don't think a large python is a good beginner snake, although many people have started with them, and are so far content with their choice. We also know others that have full grown pythons and can't take them out of their cage like they used to simply because they are too big to handle safely. A friend of ours dedicates a large space to his Burmese Pythons, but most of us can't do this. (And many of us aren't the size of our friend!) Many large pythons end up neglected, abandoned or let go. Many live in too-tight quarters most of their lives (which can be very long indeed), and it's been suggested that this is the reason why some of the larger pythons lash out at their owners out of the blue after years of docility. Every once in a while somebody in the world gets asphyxiated by their captive Burmese or Reticulated Python, but still, it's nothing compared to how many folks are mauled and/or killed every year by the Canine species just in North America alone. To have a large python (over 9-10 feet), one should know that it's a huge responsibility in more than one sense, and research is highly recommended before making such a leap.

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